lisa's dijon restaurant recommendations

You can probably guess that "resto" is slang in France for...you guessed it...restaurants. And when you are living or visiting in and around Dijon, you must take time to enjoy the fine Burgundian cuisine at one of the many cafes, brasseries, creperies and restaurants that call Dijon home. Burgundy isn't France's "gastronomic capital" for nothing! But first, a few Dijon "rules":

• Don't forget to mop up all the sauce with your bread. That's good manners in these parts. The cleaner the plate, the better.
• Set the bread on the table. You won't find a bread plate here.
• Don't ask for butter, then be surprised when they charge you for it.
• Do ask for a "carafe d'eau" if all you want to drink is tap water. It is fine to drink and tastes good(to me, anyway). But if you prefer to spend several dollars on bottled water, I can't stop you. Just order Evian or Vittel if you want water "sans gazeuese" or Perrier or Pellegrino if you like the bubbles.
• Be patient. French waiters take their time. They allow you to eat and talk. Don't be surprised if they don't acknowledge you right away. They'll appear when they are good and ready. If you want instant service go to McDo's! Unless you're at a busy cafe or brasserie, French servers won't bring the check unless you ask: "L'addition, s'il vous plait". In Paris, however, request "la note" when you want the bill. This will tell your server you understand you are in Paris. You will appear trendy even though you are wearing your high school jersey, Cubs baseball hat, and beat-up sneakers.
• You won't get ice unless you ask. And even then, you'll probably just get one cube. This was my hardest adjustment.
• Tip 5 or 10% if you liked your service. Tip is always included, and should say so on your bill. You don't HAVE to tip. Usually they add between 10 and 15% for service. But, if you normally give 20% in the US, go ahead and make a servers day and make up the 5 to 10% difference.
• Do bring restaurant-vocabulary translations with you if you want to be sure of what you're getting.
• Restaurants don't open for dinner until 7pm, some not until 730. The French eat late!

Jeff and I have dined out many, many times. We have always enjoyed our meals, with rare exception to the contrary. Three notable, expensive restaurants (that we can't afford) include the Sofitel at place Darcy, the resto at the Chapeau Rouge hotel (my dad ate here and loved it), and Thibert on place Wilson (have heard rave reviews from friends). Jeff and I usually don't pay more than 115f for a three-course meal. You can get great food for less, great food for more. We have eaten at a few "nicer" ie: more expensive places, and, likewise, at a few cheaper places. It's all good! But don't be too picky. I understand if you don't want to eat horse or snails without someone telling you, but really, trust the chefs. Travel is also for expanding your culinary experiences! If you're hesitant about speaking French, try the places on Place Darcy. These restaurants cater to tourists more than the little out-of-the way places, and generally there will be an English-speaking server around. The following are places we have personally been to and sampled several dishes. As you can see from the selection, we enjoy menus from around the world! If you go to a restaurant I have suggested, please let me know what you thought. I'll post your comments here!

Here are some of my Dijon restaurant picks...

Au Bon Pantagruel: Burgundy. Rustic one-price three-course menu: Dinner 22€, Lunch 11,80€ with "add-ons" if you're interested. Friendly, always busy. Reservations a must on weekends and summer evenings. Closed Sunday and Monday. On the market square at 20 rue Quentin. Phone 03 80 30 68 69.

La Concorde: Cafe/Brasserie. Great location near arch at 2, place Darcy. Open all the time, 7am to 1am. Popular tourist spot, but also a true Dijon institution. Good menu selections - make sure you check the plat du jour. I've never gone wrong with this option. They also make great salads: the big one is BIG, good for a meal in itself, the small salad great for a small appetite or snack.

Le Taj Mahal: Indian. Excellent Indian food, the best we've sampled in our travels. Although we've never been to India! Staff is pleasant, and this restaurant is family-run on a little street next to the old Palais de Justice. The nan au fromage will knock your socks off. 8 rue Bouhier. Phone 03 80 30 54 61. Closed Monday lunch.

Le Savoyarde: Savoie. Fondue (but not the fondue of America), Raclettes, Tartiflette. 13bis, rue d'Assas off rue de la Prefecture. Phone 30 80 72 27 67. Best to eat here in the colder months. In summer it will be stifling hot. Small place, popular, great ambiance! Make reservations!

L'Entresol: Good for vegetarian selections. Exclusively uses biological (BIO) products. Meat and fish is also served. Open only for lunch, closed Sundays. At 27-29 rue Musette, look up at the corner near rue Godrans to see it! Phone 03 80 30 15 10.

Cafe de la Prefecture: serves lunch 12-2 weekdays, Order the plat du jour! Excellent service with a smile. Fish is always the plat du jour on Fridays, and the daily specials are always market-fresh. Ask about the dessert du jour also!

Osaka: Japanese. Excellent, fresh sushi selections. Good menu for brochettes ( like shish-ke-bobs) - come with an excellent sauce. I like the hot towels at the end. Your kids will like the (live) Koi pond. Closed Sunday night. At 13 rue Musette. Phone 03 80 50 17 51.

Le Sauvage. Grilled meats, regional cuisine. Nice atmosphere, uses old hearth to grill. Huge portions. Get an entree and a plat only if you're really hungry. Otherwise, just a plat will do! For the potato "side", I recommend the gratin. The house drink is nice if you like sweet drinks. Terrace in courtyard. 64 rue Monge. Phone 03 80 41 17 33. Open everyday thanks to the hotel.

Le Petit Charolais. Not sure if this is open anymore? Call first! French. Nice, rustic setting. Charolais beef is "extra"(top-notch)! Great buffet with a good selection of crudites and charcuteries. Terrace. 106 rue Berbisey. Phone 03 80 49 81 60. Closed Sunday lunch, Monday and Wednesday dinner.

Bon Appetit !