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You can probably guess
that "resto" is slang in France for...you guessed it...restaurants.
And when you are living or visiting in and around Dijon, you must take
time to enjoy the fine Burgundian cuisine at one of the many cafes, brasseries,
creperies and restaurants that call Dijon home. Burgundy isn't France's
"gastronomic capital" for nothing! But first, a few Dijon "rules":
- Don't forget to mop up
all the sauce with your bread. That's good manners in these parts. The
cleaner the plate, the better.
- Set the bread on the
table. You won't find a bread plate here.
- Don't ask for butter,
then be surprised when they charge you for it.
- Do ask for a "carafe
d'eau" if all you want to drink is tap water. It is fine to drink
and tastes good(to me, anyway). But if you prefer to spend several dollars
on bottled water, I can't stop you. Just order Evian or Vittel if you
want water "sans gazeuese" or Perrier or Pellegrino if you
like the bubbles.
- Be patient. French waiters
take their time. They allow you to eat and talk. Don't be surprised
if they don't acknowledge you right away. They'll appear when they are
good and ready. If you want instant service go to McDo's! Unless you're
at a busy cafe or brasserie, French servers won't bring the check unless
you ask: "L'addition, s'il vous plait". In Paris, however,
request "la note" when you want the bill. This will tell your
server you understand you are in Paris. You will appear trendy even
though you are wearing your high school jersey, Cubs baseball hat, and
beat-up sneakers.
- You won't get ice unless
you ask. And even then, you'll probably just get one cube. This was
my hardest adjustment.
- Tip 5 or 10% if you liked
your service. Tip is always included, and should say so on your bill.
You don't HAVE to tip. Usually they add between 10 and 15% for service.
But, if you normally give 20% in the US, go ahead and make a servers
day and make up the 5 to 10% difference.
- Do bring restaurant-vocabulary
translations with you if you want to be sure of what you're getting.
- Restaurants don't open
for dinner until 7pm, some not until 730. The French eat late!
Jeff
and I have dined out many, many times. We have always enjoyed our meals,
with rare exception to the contrary. Three notable, expensive restaurants
(that we can't afford) include the Sofitel at place Darcy, the resto at
the Chapeau Rouge hotel (my dad ate here and loved it), and Thibert on
place Wilson (have heard rave reviews from friends). Jeff and I usually
don't pay more than 115f for a three-course meal. You can get great food
for less, great food for more. We have eaten at a few "nicer"
ie: more expensive places, and, likewise, at a few cheaper places. It's
all good! But don't be too picky. I understand if you don't want to eat
horse or snails without someone telling you, but really, trust the chefs.
Travel is also for expanding your culinary experiences! If you're hesitant
about speaking French, try the places on Place Darcy. These restaurants
cater to tourists more than the little out-of-the way places, and generally
there will be an English-speaking server around. The following are places
we have personally been to and sampled several dishes. As you can see
from the selection, we enjoy menus from around the world! If you go to
a restaurant I have suggested, please let me know what you thought. I'll
post your comments here!
Here are some of my Dijon
restaurant picks...
Havana
Cafe: Cuban. Good menu prices, good food. Great atmosphere with nice
three-season terrace. Fabulous drinks. On the market square at 2bis, rue
Claude-Ramey. Closed Sunday for lunch. Phone 03 80 50 05 88.
Au
Bon Pantagruel: Burgundy. Rustic one-price three-course menu: Dinner
22€, Lunch 11,80€ with "add-ons" if you're interested.
Friendly, always busy. Reservations a must on weekends and summer evenings.
Closed Sunday and Monday. On the market square at 20 rue Quentin. Phone
03 80 30 68 69.
La Concorde: Cafe/Brasserie.
Great location near arch at 2, place Darcy. Open all the time, 7am to
1am. Popular tourist spot, but also a true Dijon institution. Good menu
selections - make sure you check the plat du jour. I've never gone wrong
with this option. They also make great salads: the big one is BIG, good
for a meal in itself, the small salad great for a small appetite or snack.
Le Taj Mahal: Indian. Excellent
Indian food, the best we've sampled in our travels. Although we've never
been to India! Staff is pleasant, and this restaurant is family-run on
a little street next to the old Palais de Justice. The nan au fromage
will knock your socks off. 8 rue Bouhier. Phone 03 80 30 54 61. Closed
Monday lunch.
Le Savoyarde: Savoie. Fondue
(but not the fondue of America), Raclettes, Tartiflette. 13bis, rue d'Assas
off rue de la Prefecture. Phone 30 80 72 27 67. Best to eat here in the
colder months. In summer it will be stifling hot. Small place, popular,
great ambiance! Make reservations!
L'Entresol: Good for vegetarian
selections. Exclusively uses biological (BIO) products. Meat and fish
is also served. Open only for lunch, closed Sundays. At 27-29 rue Musette,
look up at the corner near rue Godrans to see it! Phone 03 80 30 15 10.
Cafe de la Prefecture: serves
lunch 12-2 weekdays, Order the plat du jour! Excellent service with a
smile. Fish is always the plat du jour on Fridays, and the daily specials
are always market-fresh. Ask about the dessert du jour also!
Osaka: Japanese. Excellent,
fresh sushi selections. Good menu for brochettes ( like shish-ke-bobs)
- come with an excellent sauce. I like the hot towels at the end. Your
kids will like the (live) Koi pond. Closed Sunday night. At 13 rue Musette.
Phone 03 80 50 17 51.
Le Sauvage. Grilled meats,
regional cuisine. Nice atmosphere, uses old hearth to grill. Huge portions.
Get an entree and a plat only if you're really hungry. Otherwise, just
a plat will do! For the potato "side", I recommend the gratin.
The house drink is nice if you like sweet drinks. Terrace in courtyard.
64 rue Monge. Phone 03 80 41 17 33. Open everyday thanks to the hotel.
Le Petit Charolais. Not
sure if this is open anymore? Call first! French. Nice, rustic setting.
Charolais beef is "extra"(top-notch)! Great buffet with a good
selection of crudites and charcuteries. Terrace. 106 rue Berbisey. Phone
03 80 49 81 60. Closed Sunday lunch, Monday and Wednesday dinner.
Bon
Appetit !
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