Dijon France History

How it all began

The Roman fortress known as Castrum Divionense, located on the military road from Lyon to Mainz, was long a secondary settlement. Sacked, pillaged and burned time and time again, each time to be rebuilt, Dijon entered history in 1015, when Robert I "the Old" established the city as a capital of his newly founded duchy in 1032, and became the first Duke of Burgundy. In 1137, a terrible fire razed the city. Duke Hughes II oversaw reconstruction within the broader limits of new fortifications which enclosed the abbey of St-Benigne as well (home to a 11th century crypt that haunts me). Of the 11 gates to the city built at that time, the last (Porte Guillaume) was replaced in 1788 by the "triumphal" arch on what is today Place Darcy.

The Great Dukes of Burgundy

When Philip the Bold received the duchy of Burgundy as a legacy, he established the House of Valois as the second ducal dynasty in a fiefdom which was already well organized. Yet Dijon's role was not primordial; Beaune was the seat of the Burgundy Parliament, whereas more northerly cities were the region's economic motors and Philip's marriage to Margaret of Flanders strengthened these ties. The dukes spent little time in Dijon, preoccupied with establishing their authority in recalcitrant corners of their realm, but they did much to develop the city's cultural heritage. When you visit Dijon you can sit in the lovely park behind the Palais, listen to the trickling water in the small pond, and if you daydream, you can imagine life here 500 years ago. Just ignore the cars driving behind you, their exhaust staining the architechture and your lungs, and instead hear the clop, clop of a horses hooves. The family tombs are in the Chartreuse de Champmol, their sumptuous palace still hosts splendid festivities; the Sainte Chapelle is the headquarters of the Order of the Golden Fleece (that's what Cote d'Or means in French, and is the order that Philip the Bold created in 1404 to draw Burgundy closer to the Church and to strengthen the duchy's position in regard to the English crown, the Holy Roman Empire and the Kingdom of France). Manufacturing also grew in the city, and as trade prospered wealthy merchants built mansions which still stand today along rue des Forges, rue Vauban, rue Verrerie and rue Berbisey. Just a few of my favorite streets!

Capital of the Province of Burgundy

Change came when the duchy became an integral part of the kingdom of France. The local population rose up against annexation by Louis XI, and suffered at the hands of the King's troops. But certain concessions were won: the Etats de Bourgogne (regional assembly made up of representatives from the Clergy, the Nobility and the Third Estate) was maintained in the old ducal palace, along with various other privileges and, most importantly, the Burgundy Parliament was transferred from Beaune to Dijon. The King visited Saint-Benigne in 1479 and solemnly swore to preserve "the freedoms, liberties, protections, rights and privileges" previously enjoyed by the duchy. Nonetheless, he did build a fortress, repair the fortifications and appoint a governor.

Dijon comes of age

As an administrative center, seat of the princes of Conde, Dijon underwent significant urban development in the 17C and 18C. Jules Hardouin-Mansart (architect of Versailles) and later his brother-in-law Robert de Cotte rebuilt the ducal palace as the splendid Palais des Etats de Bourgogne on a monumental esplanade (where you can now sit and enjoy the palace at one of the new cafes where cars used to park) then known as Place Royale. Local officials and parliamentarians built many of the fine houses that give Dijon its character. In 1725, Dijon became the Episcopal See. Under the Revolution, the Chartreuse de Champmol was destroyed; during the periods of the Empire and Restoration, the city remained largely unchanged. In 1850, the construction of the railway from Paris through Dijon and to the Mediterranean brought new life and new people; the population doubled between 1850 and 1852, as the industrial era took hold.

Dijon today

The greater Dijon area is home to about 230,000 people. Dijon is a university town and site of the Court of Appeals, and more than two-thirds of the jobs in the area are in the service sector. Industries have settled around the outskirts of the city, mainly mechanical and automotive, but also electric, food(mustard!), and chemical industries. I must recommend you stay within the Centre Ville area during your stay. It's beautiful, historic, and charming. Located in the heart of Burgundy, a region famous for its wines, its cuisine, its "plaisir de vivre," its historical heritage, and the most beautiful villages and landscapes. Like Dijon! After seeing much of France, I can say that Burgundy gives me the most pleasure. If you get a chance, take a car west towards Montbard on the small national roads. You will have spectacular views, and pass wonderful villages. In the summer, you can also enjoy a leisurely boat ride down the famous Burgundy canal.

Dijon has a prime location in France: 1 1/2 hours to Paris on the quick TGV train, 2 1/2 hours to Avignon. The city's public transportation system is excellent, cheap, and convenient. Dijon makes for a perfect starting-point to explore Burgundy. The train ride to Beaune and its Hôtel-Dieu, for example, takes only 1/2 hour by car or train. If you have a car, you can opt to stop at the famous wine villages along the way including Nuits-Saint-Georges. The Route des Grands Crus is a marvelous drive, although it will take at least twice as long to reach Beaune than if you take the autoroute(but it's worth it!).

Dijon is safe, clean, and can be pedestrian friendly (depends on the driver!). It is also reknowned for its architecture. And who can forget the food! Great food and great wine IS Dijon. Dijon is famous for its mustard, its wonderful pain d'épices (a sweet bread made with honey and spices that I am unable to appreciate at this time!), its cassis liquer (blackcurrant liqour, delicious when mixed with dry white wine for a kir or red wine for a Kruschev), its escargots, boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, jambon persillé, oeufs en meurette, and of course the world-reknowned Burgundy wines. In Dijon, you can also find simple meals in Brasseries or cafés, and there are always crêpes (there are several nice, inexpensive crêperies), as well as Chinese, Indian, Cuban, and Spanish cuisine. With almost 100 boulangeries (bakeries), and almost 200 cafes in Dijon you won't starve!

Dijon is lively. Shopping is convenient and fun. The Tuesday, Thursday(limited market), Friday and Saturday market is a sight to see, and you will find everything you need there. In the summer you will find stands in the streets every day selling everything from shoes to books. Dijon has seven cinemas(two that play "VOST" films, or "version original sub-titled", and if you go Sunday at 11am or for an early daily matinee it's cheap), an opera, the audiotorium with the best acoustics in France, several theatres, and many discothèques. And you'll find many events throughout the year: the annual gastronomy fair, the folklore festival, and the festival of wine to name a few.

This history column is sprinkled generously with information found in the France Green Guide.